Thanks for purchasing a CSSU… as described, each unit is hand-made and custom designed. We’re not IKEA yet, but do hope to make assembly as simple as possible. Reading the below and reviewing applicable pictures will certainly help.
Some tools you’ll need (or find handy):
• Cordless screwdriver or drill
• Clear acrylic adhesive caulk
• Howard’s Feed-and-Wax
• Soft cloths or towels (microfiber work well)
• A stack of books or magazines
• A extra set of hands
The below outlines: (1) Unpacking // (2) Sorting // (3) Assembly and (4) Finishing
Unpacking:
If you have received a CSSU via a shipper, it is crucial that you note any damage to the shipping crate and confirm this on the delivery slip if possible. Proper documentation is essential in retrieving any compensation from the shipper. If shipments arrive damaged and documentation does not happen (or happen properly), we will not be able to recover damages and the loss will be your own. We cannot compensate for undocumented damages or damages caused on the receiver’s end (via assembly, etc.).
• The faces and sides the main crate are secured with a dozen or so screws on the top. Remove them and then lift the top off. (The top is the side with the address placard)
• The interior items are secured with expanding foam. Be careful of removal of this to avoid damaging the materials. All material are wrapped in paper and plastic, but are not impervious to damage from cutting or striking.
• Often, after removal of the top, the sides can be knocked away with a few careful blows from a rubber mallet. Again, be careful.
• Unpack all items and inspect for damage. Note any damage including the shipping container (important) with images and notes.
Sorting:
Legs, shelves (and often panels) have been labelled for assembly. This is how the unit was assembled when it was photographed, so you can be sure it will go back together in that way.
Shelves
• The orientation of the shelves are indicated by a series of two lines. Stack the shelves so that the lines align. This is the most crucial part.
• The shelves are arranged with a top side indicated by arrows or numbers.
• The order of the shelves is indicated by dots or numbers: (dots = 1 dot for the top shelf, 2 for the next, etc.). The lowest number is the top.
Legs + Feet
• The front legs are labelled F1, F2, F3 for the front legs (going left to right facing the front)
• The back legs are labelled B1, B2, B3, etc (going left to right facing the back)
• The feet are labelled for the corresponding legs.
• Sort items: shelves, legs, feet, hardware, panels… do not remove labels yet.
• A power screwdriver or cordless drill with a #2 Phillips bit is invaluable.
• Sort legs: The are labelled with numbers (F=front / B=back) an numbers. they are arranged from left to right when facing the respective side. This means that F1 will back up to B3 on a three-bay unit… the legs are labeled on the base.
• Locate the top and bottom of each leg. The numbers/letters are at the top.
• Sort feet: The feet are labelled per leg (F1, B3, etc).
• (Optional): A very small dab of acrylic caulk in each hole prior to screw insertion will help the "bite" of the screw. If any squeezes out, wipe off immediately. Acrylic caulk will wipe off with water.
• If there seems to be smudges on the piece, it's very likely dried wax from assembly. Use new, fresh, wet wax to clean up. I'd highly suggest Howard's Feed-and-wax available at your corner hardware store. Never use solvent near the shelves.
Assembly:
Each joint has a “give” of about 1/32in in any direction… meaning, that, until final tightening and alignment, there’s some “shimmy" for alignment. Do not final tighten any bolt until everything is aligned. It will become extremely sturdy once each joint is finally tightened.
Legs/Shelves
• Note: don't overly tighten any screw or bolt until the very end when everything is aligned.
• Attach respective foot to each leg with the supplied #8 wood screw (pointy-tip). These #8 woods screws will attach all legs and feet (The #8 bolts and nuts will be used for the panels).
• (Optional) If this will be a "forever" installation, a small dab of adhesive caulk on the inside of the foot — where it meets the aluminum — will help overall stability. Wipe up any excess caulk immediately.
• Find the bottom shelf and determine the face and back.
• Place bottom shelf on a small stack of books or low box to raise it 4-5 inches off of the ground. This will take the weight/stress off of the feet while you install the legs to the bottom shelf.
• Attach the legs to the outside edges of the bottom shelf with the supplied #8 wood screws. Do not install interior legs just yet.
• (Optional) If this will be a forever installation, a very small dab of adhesive caulk on the top of the foot — where it meets the bottom of the bottom shelf — it will increase stability.
• (Optional) If this will be a forever installation, a very small dab of adhesive inside the hole that will receive each screw will increase bond strength and overall stability. If a screw/hole is /very/ loose and the screw will not “bite”, insert a small piece of cardboard or a sliver of a toothpick to pack/fill the hole a bit (along with a dab of caulk). While this seems lo-fi, it’s an ancient carpenter’s trick to get screws to bite in worn-out holes. Screw in most of the way, let dry a short while (15mins or so) and then tighten for final assembly.
• Remove books and rest unit on the newly installed outer legs. There will be a good bit of shimmy for a while, so be careful.
• Place stack of books under the middle of the bottom shelf to support the sag in the center until you attach the inner legs.
• Install the other shelves with the help of a friend or a stack of books to support the center of the shelf — remember, note front/back orientation.
• After all of the shelves are installed on the outer legs, install the inner legs (if applicable).
Panels
• Locate respective panels (labelled) and orient them on the unit.
• Using the supplied #8 bolts and nuts, attach panels to the legs. Do not tighten the bolts until all bolts are installed and the panel is aligned — there's a bit of play in each panel to account for alignment. (Optional: Small scraps of cardboard can be used to space the panels within the legs until the bolts are tightened)
• (Note: Generally, I like to see the head of the bolt "facing" the viewer and the nuts to the back or inside, but the orientation is 100% up to you)
• Wipe unit down with Howard's Feed-and-wax (HFW) and a soft cloth. If you scratch the shelves, a generous dab of HFW and a green scotchbrite pad will buff them out. Be very gentle and work in a random “jiggy” pattern — not left to right, in a circle or front/back. If you use too much force, you can burn through the lacquer. You can also use the scotchbrite and HFW on the aluminum legs with caution — working with the "grain" (up/down).
• If any adhesive residue from the labels remain, also use HFW to remove.
• Side doors into rails
• Make sure everything is shimmied into alignment as you'd like it and hand-tighten the screws to a firm, but not overly tight grip.
Finishing:
Once assembled, give everything a hand-tighten to bring everything into proper form and wipe-down with Howard's Feed-and-Wax and you're set.
Enjoy.
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